North Sumatran Precious Gem

There, nestled comfortably in the heart of North Sumatran mountains, lined by the town of Parapat and by extension, the city of Medan, lies the biggest freshwater lake in the whole of Sumatra, the sensational sparkling gem of Toba Lake.



I spent a considerable amount of my early childhood "consigned" (as my parents always swiftly and remorselessly put it, like a rented out old movie in the DVD store) at the Dharma Batama Graha Temple, a Mahayana Buddhist Centre in Parapat, just a few stone-throws away from the famed gem itself. Thus the Toba Lake has always retained a special charm in my heart. Daytime, it was the perfect racing spot with numerous kampong boys, as we struggled to outrun each other and plunge in (various creative styles and contortion - headfirst, toefirst, armfirst, buttfirst you name it) to rip apart its cold silvery surface. Come nightfall it turned into the perfect reflection spot, physically and mentally, when the round yellow moon winked jovially at its own mirror image on the glassy water, the air was still and the praying mantis chanted their songs in the velvety distance of the night. Sunset over the lake was priceless : the sky ablast with fiery red, and the water seemed to emit magical glow from within. I lay down and reflected on life as seen through my youthful eyes. Sometimes I wrote them down, at other times I proceeded to sit up on the cool wet grass to read my story books.



Even the average tourist harboring no soft-spot whatsoever towards the lake would be smitten by its quiet beauty. In the middle of the lake, there is Samosir Island, a tourist region where traditional culture prevails largely undisturbed. Toba Lake is the perfect destination for those looking for a short weekend to get away from the monotonous life routine.

Essential Information :

Getting to Toba Lake: Tourist mini-bus operators offer two different routes from Medan to Toba Lake. The quicker route is via Siantar (Pemantangsiantar). When there is enough demand a more scenic, but longer, route via Berastagi and Sipiso-piso waterfall is also available.




There are public buses and a daily train from Medan to Siantar. From Siantar there are public mini-buses to Parapat. Taking a public mini-bus for the whole journey from Medan to Parapat is not recommended since passengers are packed in like sardines and the journey takes over five hours. From Parapat ferries run hourly to Tuk-Tuk and less frequently to Ambarita.



An interesting alternative route would be to take a bus from Medan to Berastagi and then travel by bus (or buses) to Haranggaol, on the northern tip of the lake. A ferry runs, once a week, from Haranggaol to Ambarita. There may also be a ferry from Tongging (near Haranggaol) to Ambarita.

Accommodation: A good choice of accommodation is available on Tuk-Tuk. Ambarita is a bit too remote and quiet.

Food: The food at Tuk-Tuk is very good and much better than at Bukit Lawang or Medan. There are restaurants offering excellent beef rendang and western cookings.

Activities:
Lots of people hire motorbikes but watch out! The roads on Tuk-Tuk are windy and twisty with plenty of potholes and blind turns. Accidents are common and could easily cost you Rp10,000,000, when you've paid for the ambulance from Siantar, hospital fees and bike repair costs. Much cheaper and safer are activities such as trekking and cycling. There are hot springs on the western side of Samosir island.


For more ideas on weekend getaway, visit weekend.com.sg.

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